CV & contact




DAN SHIPSIDES - Climb poems:









The Fear

Gecko roof / Clocks

Angel's Wall



Annotated commentry transcrided from minidisc recording made during the climb.

GEDE - read from bottom up click here



walk up slope to iron cross on summit
to tree - clip - safe
right foot - left hand - left foot - right hand
left foot - right foot - right hand - left hand
left foot - right foot - right hand - left hand
push with legs to tree
crawl to easier ground
left hand pull up - push legs on pebbles
right hand up to sandstone pinch
left hand quartz positive pinch
right hand then left hand to triangular hold above
left hand to sandstone
left foot wide - right hand on wet scoop - push from tree to wall
sling tree - hands on branch - pull under - beyond
move upto tree
right foot up - left foot up - gear in crack to right
push up to apex of gully with tree
right hand on sandstone pebble
left hand on quartz triangle
cross over with left leg move towards gully
find small ledge push up right leg
right foot on red brick cross over
left hand sandstone break - right hand to scoop - push
right hand across - right foot up to limestone -wet
reach up left hand to sandstone pebble
join hands on limestone
left foot up high to sandstone scoop
right foot - left foot above - push thru legs
traverse right on slopers - easy
hands onto break top
left foot traverse on break - right foot - left foot - right foot
right foot up - left foot thru to thread
left hand onto wet limestone - right hand to sandstone
push feet - pad left hand - right hand
three finger right hand sandstone - left foot - right hand
left foot to edge - right foot to scoop
move right off ledge
stand - balance over bulge
reach big ledge left foot - right foot - break
cross over right foot - left foot up - right foot balance
left foot up to follow right hand - reach pebble
good sandstone hold right hand
reach up - left hand three fingers to pebble
left foot to sandstone then scoop
right hand up - left foot to scoop - balance
right hand to sandstone - swap
right foot onto quartz - left foot up
balance - hands on scoop
right foot up - left foot on sandstone block
sling root
left hand pebble - left foot - right hand - left foot - right foot
right hand to pebble - move over left
left foot onto pock-marked step
right foot up - left foot to ledge - push up
left foot up - push thru left knee
both hands into big scoop
right foot - left foot - easy moving on pebbles
right foot up - left foot to sandstone break
from third belay
Fourth and fifth pitch

follow to corner and belay
cross loose scree on sloped ledge to sandstone break
right hand - left foot - left foot - right hand
left foot up - right foot up - left foot up - crawl on big steps
hands onto sandstone - lean forward
left foot on - right foot up - left foot onto small pebble
left foot up to sandstone block - push right leg
past quartz seamed patch
right hand on sandstone block
right hand grip edge - left foot up - right foot thru
wire thread break
left hand up - left foot across - push up
move right diagonal to break
pull with right hand - left hand on sandstone
right hand on sharp limestone block
right foot up over sandstone break
left foot up - right foot up – balance
push thru knee with right leg
left foot up in pocket - right foot onto friction-smear
left hand up - right hand on white block
move over to right - small break
old bolts
right foot to small ledge
left foot across and up
right foot up - left foot up - easy angle - no hand holds
left foot into pebble socket
right foot onto cement band - smear
right hand to big pocket in limestone grooved rock
right foot round - left foot thru
right leg out - left foot thru
pull up left hand traverse right
left hand to pebble socket - right hand to edge
left foot - right foot
up to corner
left foot up - right foot high - left hand to sandstone lozenge
right traverse past bush - across face
right foot up left – left traverse to bush - gear two slings
right foot - left foot quartz
rock up on left knee
right hand onto positive black block
stretch left foot up again - right foot up
left foot onto sandstone pebble
right hand up to micro spike
left hand two finger - ochre thumb pinch
left foot onto mini sandstone edge
left hand out - traverse feet to right
gear in crack
right hand into crack
left hand up - right hand up - right foot follow
right hand thru and up to left ledge edge
right foot onto sandstone - push down - left hand red block
hands high on rounded pebbles
right foot up from ledge - left foot follow
from second belay
Third pitch

bolt belay
right hand then left step into scoop - to end second pitch
to big easy step
left hand into pocket - traverse diagonal left
right hand push on pebble
gain ledge and big sandstone block
palms down on slope - push with legs
left foot high right - traverse right foot high
pull up and thru
right hand pocket - left foot up high to outside edge
left hand pocket
right foot just above smooth quartz
left hand high onto pebble
right hand three fingers pocket - left hand onto quartz edge
small ledge
right foot up - pinch left hand - cross right foot to crack
right hand up - push pull on left foot
right foot up - balance
left foot high again
high step left - top of bulge - right foot join
right hand on sandstone positive edge pull
left hand good pocket
right hand into pocket up on right
move to right - right foot thru
right foot thru
balance up
left hand pinch - push pull right knee
right foot up over - right hand to pebble
move hands over bulge - balance
left hand block - cross over with right foot
left hand up - right hand up
past old bolts
thread sling solid root
left foot - right foot - easy to overlap crack
stand up
right foot thru - left foot up - right foot - feet onto ledge
right hand to small ledge - traverse feet to left
right hand onto limestone - left foot onto big pebble
right foot onto small ledge - left foot onto sandstone edge
right foot upto jug - left foot into pocket
right hand on jug - pull up
left foot up - right foot up
easy ground to quartz hold
left foot - right foot - right hand - left hand
left foot - right foot - left hand - right hand
left foot - right foot - right hand - left hand
left foot - right foot - left hand - right hand
right foot onto pebble
thru bulge - left foot up again - push over
left foot up by break
from first belay
Second pitch

to belay at Sant Marti hermitage
left hand on big quartz pebble - push with legs
right foot onto plate
left foot up - right hand to sandstone pinch
push left leg - right foot up push
right hand to pebble - stand up
right foot up - big step socket
left hand join
right hand up right to sandstone panel
right foot then left foot onto shale black block
left foot - right foot - hands balancing
cross thru - traverse to left
right hand on pebble - left hand on pebble
feet to big white block
left foot on edge
right hand slap on scoop
move up to large scoop
pushing with feet - hands just for balance
left foot then right foot above
left foot high on sandstone pebble
right foot onto break - loose scab - move left
move thru onto small pebble right hand
reach sandstone knee high break
left foot - right foot up
two hands push up on pebbles
balance weight forward
left hand big pebble
right hand to limestone white block
right foot yellow pebble - easy up
right hand thru - left hand sandstone chock
left foot sandstone block
Start at base moving up
First pitch


Read from here upwards.